A quick run down of Tirana. Albania’s move into democracy is evident all over Tirana. The city is booming with construction and the city seems full of energy. Although not the most beautiful city in the world, Tirana has done some interesting things to try and change the image of the city. The mayor of Tirana, an artist of sorts, has started a number of initiatives to change the drab image left by the communist era. Gray, boring and depressing city blocks that were once stacked row on row have been painted in a multitudes of styles and vibrant colors which has given the once lifeless blocks some personality. The Luna river (once a cesspool running through Tirana) has been cleaned up. The houses lining the river were demolished in favor of green grass and trees lining the riverbanks. There is one exception however. One single painted bright pink block remains clinging to the side of the river. This is known in Tirana as “the last house standing”. The house was left in tact due to complications with the occupants. In the 15th century, a powerful northern chieftain, Leke Dukagjin, formalized the Kanun (or code) comprised of 1262 articles of every aspect of life; work, marriage, family, property, hospitality, etc. Within the code existed a matter of honor where by all males of the family were bound by duty to avenge the death of male family members or guests by the hands of other clans. The result of such acts of vengeance would create a “blood feud”; an endless spiral of killing that could only end when all the male members of one house were dead or reconciliation was brokered by respected village elders. Although the communist regime suppressed much of these ancient codes, some traditions and matters of honor have not been forgotten. The “last house standing” was left as a result of a long –lasting blood feud. The men of one such house live here in fear for their lives while Tirana’s business goes on around them.
Further exploration of Tirana took us to the trendy Blloku area which was once forbidden to the general population (only opened in 1991) and was reserved solely for the Communist party elite. A quick stop on the edge of the Blloku at the former residence of Prime Minister Enver Hoxha’s for a photo got us escorted by guard off the premise. Who knew? The Blloku is filled with café’s, shops, clubs and restaurants and is definitely the cutting edge culture in Tirana, far different from the easily discernable cookie cutter communist blocks of Hoxha’s era.
The next day’s activities took us to Mount Dajti to tide the Dajti express cable car to the top for sublime views of Tirana and area. Unfortunately, the weather refused to co-operate and the fog restricted the view to about 30 feet. We retreated from the mountain (where we saw nice view’s from the cable car at least) and caught the bus up to Kruja.
Pictures: 1- Anelia in city square 2- Painted communist apartments 3- Jeff standing in front of ex-Prime Minister's residence before being escorted away 4- Last house standing
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