Second largest city in Croatia, Split is a unique and exuberant city which balances tradition and modernity. After circling the old town for what must have been 2 hours and running dangerously low on petrol, Anelia and Jeff finally stumbled across the one kilometer square area of the old town. It only took asking for directions twice! Jeff doesn’t seem quite so good with the map as he claims to be says Anelia. Jeff would like to remind Anelia of an ill-advised left hand turn when he said “we probably should just stay on this road” (which led to the old town). Anelia would like to point out that the sign said “tourist info left”. Anelia would also like to remind Jeff of another quote of his: “ I think we are getting close”, where after he soon realized they were headed out of town on the same road they came in on. Needless to say Split's city council should invest in street signs. Imagine finding an address in Millwoods without any street signs or addresses. Yup that sums it up.
Split was very cool. A magically lit up wharf , Diocletian’s Palace, and cobblestone streets full of restaurants, shops and cafes. It truly is a city of tradition mixed with modern living. The only difficulty was fighting through the crowds. Split is quickly gaining popularity with Europeans as a vacation destination. What started in Dubrovnik in the south of Croatia has quickly spread up the coast. Ferries to the Dalmation islands of Hvar and Korcula have made Split a very popular base from which to begin ones fun in the sun. It also makes it tricky to find reliable accommodation. The “Vultures” meet you at the bus station or ferry, throwing signs for rooms for rent in your face, each trying hard to out-sell the other in a mad housing frenzy. Luckily for Anelia and Jeff they arrived via car and missed much of the pack. However, they had to park at the bus station and the stragglers at the back of the pack quickly picked up their scent and headed their direction. J and A beat a hasty retreat towards the nearest tourist agency; which will also help set you up with private accommodation. The rooms are reliably more clean and in good order but often cost a little more. Unfortunately for Anelia and Jeff that price was a little hefty. They decided to head back to the vultures when they were approached by a man offering rooms. They bartered for the price of an apartment and came to an agreement. He took them on a short walk through the old town to a small run-down apartment crammed into a back corner next to an equally crammed apartment housing a large family, screaming baby and all. Jeff told him this would not do and made to leave. He conceded he had other rooms and showed them next to a ladies house where the room was much nicer, the bathroom was new and there was access to a fridge. Just what the doctor ordered. Interesting that this place was the same price as the other yet he showed the other dive first. Sometimes it pays to be choosey. The stay in Split consisted of just one day where Jeff and Anelia toured the old town and enjoyed a steak dinner. Why steak? Jeff and Anelia needed a little reminder of home. For desert, Anelia finally found the allusive "Pepper cookie"; a Croatian traditional pastry. Check out the video. How were the cookies? Two weeks later we finally threw them out. Not so good.
Pics: 1 - Cathedral of Diocletian's palace 2 - Anelia on the Seaside 3 - Cylindrical entrance to the palace 4 - View of Split 5 - Gregorius ( religious leader) 6 - Fish market
Pepper Cookie take 2
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