Berat and Gjirokastra, Albania

  The towns of Berat and Gjirokastra are world UNESCO sites chalk full of history and remnants of the Ottoman occupation in Albania.   The old city of Berat is divided into three main neighborhoods, with the most important being Kala or castle district.  White walled ottoman style homes line the steep climb up to the castle perched high on the hill overlooking the town.  We made the long climb up and were surprised to find that the town within the walls of the castle was still in use.  As we wandered around the town and castle, a local from the neighborhood approached us and in broken English, Italian and Albanian started giving us a tour and history of the castle.  It was great!  He took us to all the important sites and gave us background into each, including the old church and graveyard, which was torn down by the communist regime.  The bones from the graveyard were thrown unceremoniously beneath the foundation of the old church as the communists erected a restaurant on top with a fountain where the graveyard used to be.  The fellow leading us around even took it upon himself to be the photographer, taking our camera and taking snapshots of us all the right times.  His knowledge of how and where to get the best photos told us this wasn’t the first time he had done this.  Nevertheless, when the tour was over he did not ask for any money but accepted our donation, which we were more than happy to give. 

Gjirokastra had a slightly different feel to it than Berat.  Perhaps it was the gloomy rain or the dark castle with its bloody history or the knowledge that Enver Hoxha (the notorious communist dictator) was born and grew up there, but the town seemed darker, more sinister.  The streets are lined with Ottoman style houses as well but from a different era.  The Tower style houses left behind were capped with tiles of rock.  After a rainfall the rooftops, when viewed from above, shimmer like dragon scales.  The tower houses are of unique design consisting of three floors:  the basement use for storage and animals, the second floor or winter house with small windows and small rooms to conserve heat, and the top floor or summer house with beautifully decorated rooms and large open windows with stunning views.  The ethnographic museum showing life as it was in Berat is housed in Enver Hoxha’s childhood home and was well worth the visit.  

pic 1 - Ottoman houses in the kala district (castle)  pic 2 - Anelia vs the giant head  pic 3 - view from Berat castle   pic 4 - streets of Gjirokastra     pic 5 - winter coffee/tea room in ottoman tower house (house of Enver Hoxha)