Madaba, Jordan

Hello to you all, whomever that may be!  Our southern tour from Amman began with a trip to the near by metroplois of Madaba.  Upon arrival we checked out the local hotels to find a place to hole up for the night.  The first hotel on the list was the Madaba Inn Hotel,  a little run down on the exterior but brightly lit inside and when Jeff ran in to check prices the lady told him "seventeen".

"Seventeen!?" said Jeff, looking around the lobby that seemed nice but was difficult to see as it was busy with the comings and goings of a tourist bus loading up.

"yes, seventeen," said the lady.  

Having stayed in a dodgy hotel in Amman for sixteen, Jeff thought this looked promising at the price of seventeen.  A few more hotels checked and we returned to the Madaba Inn Hotel to take the room.  Anelia went in to "make the papers" (a term used by the Boorman clan which means to check in to the hotel)while Jeff unpacked the car.  A different clerk was on duty.  She asked the usual necessary questions when checking in to a hotel that is only charging seventeen.

Anelia:  "Is there hot water"

Desk Clerk: "Yes"

Anelia: "Is ther always hot water"

Desk Clerk: "Yes" (giving a odd look to Anelia)

Anelia: "Internet?" (expecting the answer to be no)

DK:"of course"

Anelia "Wireless?"

DK: "always wireless" (another weird look)

Anelia: "Is breakfast included?"

Dk: "yes"

Anelia: "what is it, the usual bread and cheese?"

DK: "uh, its a buffet" (a really weird look)

Anelia:"and its seventeen"

DK: "yes seventeen"

Anelia returns to the car after viewing the room.  It is unbelievable!  And to think we were paying sixteen in Amman for a pile of feces hotel.  With great excitement we unpacked and lugged in our luggage.  It was at this point that we truly looked around the lobby and realized something was amiss.  The lobby wasn't nice, it was really nice, and after sharing a look we finally saw the posted prices: double bed 70JD.  70 Jordanian Dinars which works out to about 110$ Canadain.  No wonder the weird looks from the desk clerk during the five minute interrogation.  "I don't think this place is seventeen" says Anelia.  This place is a 3 star hotel, far above the cost of seventeen dinar hotel.  It was at this point the desk clerk also realized our error and said "no, no seventy, seventy," with his think Jordanian accent.  We began the slow, embarrassing retreat back to the car when the desk clerk stopped us.  "I will give you the room for 50."  So... we stayed in our second three star hotel of the trip and had a great nights sleep.

Madaba is home to a vast collection of preserved Mosaics dating back to the sixth century A.D.  Many of these byzantine mosaics were massive, covering every room of churches, palaces and other buildings of the wealthy or holy.  Some are in immaculate condition.  One of the most incredible mosaics is found in St. George Church.  The mosaic is a map of the middle east that with great detail pinpoints many holy and important sites of the time with amazing geographical accuracy.  It is estimated that the map was at least six years in the making.  Several mosaics later and all mosaic't out (no clue on spelling that) we left the town of Madaba on through the desert to Karak. 

The Road to Madaba, Jordan

Making full use of our newly rented hot-rod we took the long route on the way to Madaba. First stop was the supposed baptism site our none other than Jesus Christ.  With great skepticism we joined all the other tourists on the shuttle to take us to the site.  Most interesting was the explanation of the archeological data and historical references which lead many (including the pope) to believe that John the Baptist baptized Jesus in the area .  They even had Anelia and I considering the possibility that this was truly the site of the baptism.  

We moved on towards Madaba, stopping off at Mukawir.  This was the desert castle of King Herod who ironically enough was the man to order the beheading of St. John the Baptist who had baptized Jesus in the Jordan not so long ago.  Not much is left of the great castle but the views out over the desert from its high perch were stunning.

Our final stop before Madaba was the hot springs of Hammat Ma'in.  The springs lie in a lush canyon cutting through the desolate desert on its way to the Dead Sea.  The springs consist of three main waterfalls.  Hammat Ma'in resort connects swimmers with a natural experience of the springs with pools that have been constructed around the base of the two smaller waterfalls.  Bathers can enjoy two temperatures of water, the very hot 45 degree Celsius pool or the blistering 65 degree pool.  The spa also has a Roman bath and sauna (a little dodgy and not recommended)  An evening in the pools soothed all our aches and pains and ended the day beautifully.

pic 1 -  Hammat Ma'in springs  pic 2 -   Mukawir, castle of Herod the Great  pic 3 - Anelia dips her toe in the river Jordan   pic 4 - View from kings highway

Desert Castles, Jordan

For ease of transportation, Jeff and Anelia rent yet another super-car and astonishingly enough manage to navigate their way out of Amman (the capital) and into the eastern desert (okay, okay, we had to ask for directions 3 times and it took us over an hour). The most interesting thing about traffic in Amman is that rules are somewhat obeyed until you reach one of the many traffic circles and then all hell breaks loose. It's every car for itself and you better be ready to use the horn, break and the defibrillator for your passengers (ie: Anelia).  Also a point of interest is the presence of traffic police at these circles who seem to stand idly by while chaos ensues. Nevertheless, we made it through without a scratch.

The desert castles of East Jordan are made fascinating by their remote locations deep in the heart of the bleak desert.  With the rocks and sand stretching in all directions it's had to imagine anyone living in these conditions. The highlight of the tour was Castle Azraq where T.E. Lawrence (Lawrence of Arabia) made his headquarters during the Arab Revolt against the Ottomans during World War 1. The castle actually dates back to 300 AD and was used by many empires and kingdoms as a strong point in the Eastern deserts.

The "Super-Kia" then raced us home, stopping to pick up a couple of hitch-hikers looking for a ride to Amman.  This turned out to be a very good thing. Having made dinner arrangements with a Jordanian family living in Amman the previous day, it was becoming apparent that we would never be able to find our way through the labyrinth of Amman in time to make our date.  Of course, in typical Jordanian hospitality, one of the hitch hikers not only directed us to the right area of town but drove around with us asking directions until we arrived safe and sound at our destination.  The man then took a cab back to his home and refused any compensation for his efforts.  Dinner with the family was terrific and a great way to experience Jordanian culture. Anelia was a little worried when we first arrived as she was quickly escorted into a separate room away from Jeff to "mingle" with the non-english speaking mother while Jeff whooped it up with 6 good-hearted men, 3 of whom spoke some if not fluent English. Of course, Anelia was stuck answering questions about religion, marriage and children as best she could in what could only be best described as a game of charades.  The meal was fabulous and after many thwarted attempts to retire for the evening, we finally managed to say farewell.  We navigated the streets once again (stopping for directions only 3 times. Yes, we had a map) and made it unscathed to our hotel.  It was an unforgettable experience. Thank you Mohammed and family.

Dead Sea, Jordan

Every trip to Jordan must include a visit to float in the Dead Sea!  The Dead Sea lies 1000 meters below sea level and a salt content so high that it is almost completely devoid of life (just some micro-organisms).  You have probably heard that due to the salinity you will float, but nothing will prepare you for that sensation nor the effortlessness with which you do.  There is nothing quite like it. For the complete experience and a few extra bucks you can cover yourself in mud from the deeps of the Dead Sea.  The mud is said to be excellent for the skin.  Jeff abstained from the mud pack but Anelia slathered it on and had to admit her skin afterwards felt soft and smooth. 

Getting to the dead sea is a little difficult (buses only run by necessity) and getting back to Amman is even trickier.  We ended up hitching a ride with an Australian who had hired a driver for the day.  On the return trip we made a stop at Mt. Nebo, where legend has it the prophet Musa (also known as Moses) stood and looked out over the land, declaring it "the Promised Land".  He soon after died (at age 120) and was buried on the mountain.   

pic 1 - the Dead Sea mudpack    2 - Anelia had Mt. Nebo (pics a little out of order)   3 - Jeff floats with ease   4 - the beach   5 - look at all that salt!

No wonder Jesus walked on water!

Jaresh, Jordan

Wow, we have sure see a lot of ruins hey?  You'd think we would get tired of them.  It's true, it happens, but then you visit a site like Jaresh and get to gaze in wonderment and awe at the beauty and majesty of the cities of ancient times.  Jaresh ranks up there as one of the most amazing ruins we have seen.  The current area of excavation is huge!  The uncovered and preserved structures by archeologists make up under 10% of the city with the remaining 90% still yet to be discovered.  The thriving metropolis was originally a Roman city by the name of Geresa, home to 15,000 citizens.  The city began its rise to power during the time of Alexander the Great and reached it height in the 3rd century AD.  Jaresh had two roman theaters and a hippodrome where every day charioteers would race for glory and wealth.   It was inconceivable trying to imagine the size and incredible wealth of the city.  To top off the tour we took in a re-enactment of a Roman legion in action, followed by gladiators and chariot races in the Hippodrome. 

Amman, Jordan

What an incredible place!  Ever since we landed in Amman we have been blown away but the friendliness of the people and their willingness to help out.  When we tried to board the plane in Athens were initially unable to check in. We were told that in order to get in to Jordan you had to have verification of a mode of travel out of the country or at lest be able to show that you have the money to leave.  We were also told that we would probably be delayed at the airport in Amman and even possibly denied entry.  After some discussion (and  a little bit of freaking out) we were finally able to check in and board the plane.  We arrived in Amman and had no problem at the airport.  There were no questions asked and no hassle.  The only thing we heard over and over again was "Please, welcome to Jordan" or "Hello, you are welcome here".  Even in the streets, people would honk and holler out the car windows "Welcome to Jordan!". 

We checked in to our hotel, a rather dodgy establishment, and the next day was spent touring the city.  It is surreal to be in a place with such ancient and important history.  The middle east has been a land of empire's and great civilizations for thousands of years and it remains a place full of culture and tradition.  Anelia was a little worried as many of the women in Amman wear the full covering garments but no one seemed to mind our western clothes. 

Our tour took us to the Citadel of Amman with the ancient ruins of an Umayyad place.   From there we had a stunning view of Amman including the Ancient and almost completely intact Roman Theatre and the worlds tallest flag pole. (130m tall)  O.k. so the flag pole isn't exactly world history but it is hard to miss.  We had lunch at the legendary Hashem Restaurant which ,rumour has it, is almost as old as the city of Amman.  There are only 5 things on the menu, Falafel, Chips, Hummus and two other dips who's names are unknown.  All are delicious.  Pita (which is delivered hot and fresh every few hours from the bakery across the street) is free.  It was so good we went back the next day.  We retired to our dodgy hotel and after a cold shower (which we were promised hot water for) we slipped into our sleeping bags (as the sheets looked like they hadn't been changed or washed in a while) and called it a day.  Oh, forgot to mention about the meat shops.  Lamb anyone?

pic 1 - temple of hercules at Umayyad palace     2 - Roman theatre    3 - Lunch at Hashem   4 - Worlds tallest flag-pole

5 - some tasty meat choices (that's brains on the lower shelf but you can't make it out)

 

Crete, Greece

Due to bad weather, we took a brief break from running around and set up shop in an modest little apartment in a villa with a pool and hot tub.  The hot tub was necessary because of the lousy weather and no it was not the Ritz that's for sure.  We decided Crete would be a bit of a break for us and as such the blog will also take a bit of a break.  Just some Pics for you to observe.  Till next time.

pics 1 - Knossos, the palace of King Minos

        2 - Anelia on the beach - notice the hood and long pants

        3 - jellyfish at the Crete aquarium

        4 - Mountain village of Laki

        5 - Entrance to Samaria Gorge

        6 - Pottery in Margarites

        7 - Waves and one excited Anelia

        8 - City of Chania

        9 - Sogging it out on the way to Dikten cave where Zues hid from his father

      10 - The fertile Plateau of Lassithi high in mountains of Crete